Warning! This Lady Is Not Making Cookies!

Scenes From The Streets in India

So she is crafting by hand what are known here as Dung Cakes.  Yes that's right, she is shaping Cow Poop into little flat cakes to dry ... for use later as fuel to burn in their fire.  Almost looks good enough to eat ... ? ... well, maybe not!

There are plenty of Sacred Cows in India, and it's not just a figure of speech.  They literally roam the streets, and folks just drive between them and pay 'em no mind.  They're all over the place.

    Transportation in India - choose your weapon

    There is more than one way to get around India.  In fact, the variety is almost limitless.  Check out this overloaded truck, with a front and back view, hilarious!  They said it was full of "animal food".  I guess that means - hay?  Hope it isn't too heavy. 

    And it is surprising how many camels there are around here.  I didn't expect a bunch of camels in India, but they are very common in the rural area where we are staying.  I thought this picture turned out pretty cool, snapped it in front of Hindu temple/museum.

Incredible Variety of Historic Structures

    So we've been traveling quite a long ways in the last couple days, and have driven several hundred kilometers.  We seen a range of buildings and ancient places with a lot of history behind them.   

  

 

     This last picture is a place called the Amber Fort and yes, it's as dramatic as it looks, up on a hill.  

    Amazing, and one of our favorites.

Today is The Day - The Taj Mahal - India

This is Why you Travel  ... Part II

    Fiona and were so excited when we woke up today in New Delhi India, knowing that today would be the day we would see the Taj Mahal!  In fact, she literally said to me, "Today is the day!"  and I knew exactly what she meant.

     It's one of those life long dreams, to see the Taj Mahal, the mysterious and remote building deep in the heart of India.  We were full of anticipation, and couldn't wait to lay eyes on ... what is really one of the world's most magnificent structures.  

    Only we had to wait.  We drove about 300 kilometers from Delhi to Agra, India, the home of the Taj Mahal  (and as it turns out several other amazing historical sites).  And one of the more surprising things was the green and lush Indian country side that we traveled through.

    We got there in the afternoon, and of course the driver and the guide insisted we have lunch before we go to the "the Taj" as they call it.  We were positively delighted by the absolutely wonderful meal of curry and other curious spices, that really hit the spot since we had been traveling since early in the morning. 

    Only this picture doesn't do it justice, it was a delcious and spicy Indian special local dish.

    The impact of seeing the Taj Mahal, up close and personal was ... to use a cliche - rather breathtaking.  In fact, it brought tears to your eyes (at least Fiona's eyes, and to be truthful I got a lump in my throat).
    We walked around and spent a lot of time there, we had a guide who explained the history of the site, and the weather was really perfect, around 83F with a mild breeze. 
    As the tour guide said (and I've used this phrase) "it's not really a view, it's a feeling."  And it was, we couldn't get enough of it. 

    Eventually we moved on to the next stop.  I hate to say it that way, but there is a lot more ancient history in India than I was aware of.  We went to the "Fort" or Palace of the same family and empire that built the Taj Mahal.   And it was incredibly interesting, with new amazing views around every corner.
    We've had a good trip so far, and this was one of those really special days that make a huge impression on you. 

    Fiona is a pretty special person too, and I can't imagine a trip doing this on our own ... without her skills in making travel arrangements and accommodations, all the other things that it takes to pull off an Around the World Trip ... I am a lucky guy. 

There is no Such Thing as a Typical Day

Start out in One Place, End up in Another, Here's a blow-by-blow account of today's activities

    We woke up this morning in Sri Lanka, our last day there.  I went for a run, and we had to pack up our stuff because we were leaving for the airport later in the morning. 

    Went down for breakfast at the Hotel guest house where we were staying, it's called the Norfolk Airport Villa, and is owned by a British guy who was born in Sri Lanka.  He lives in Norfolk England, hence the name. 

    At breakfast we sat next to, and had a long conversation with, a couple who were traveling.  The man was Austrian, and his wife was Hungarian.  It's common to meet other travelers while on the road yourself. 

    We went to the airport and got there a little early, which is a good thing because it took a super long time to check in.  One of the biggest irritations while traveling is dealing with airports, and customs, and check-in, etc.  They seem to apply the rules differently all the time, and it can be a real drag, especially in countries who are not very efficient. 

    The flight left on time however, and we were on our way to India.  They actually served a meal on the flight, Indian curry, not bad for airplane food.  I love Indian curry, and I'm looking forward to enjoying several curry meals and other Indian foods while in the country.

    There are a lot of quirky things that can happen in other cultures.  For example, on the plane, the flight attendants went down the aisle to clean up the food trays, and they did one side all the way down, and then went back and did the other side, weird.  They also collect the headsets about halfway through the flight, like they start to clean up way early.  "Hey, I'm watching a movie!  Can't I just wait until the movie's over?  The flight goes on for a long time."

    So we arrive in New Delhi, India late in the afternoon, almost evening.  We have another hassle getting Indian visas to allow us to visit the country.  You would think that countries would encourage tourists to come and spend money, but they make it really hard to get permission to enter.  You have to really want to go to India, because you have to jump through a lot of hoops to get there. 

    We were met by a driver - a first for us - we usually make our way to the hotel or wherever we're going.  But we have actually hired a car and a driver for the time we're in India.  We had planned to maybe rent a car, because we're going to be moving around a lot, but we got a lot of advice: You can hire a driver and the car for as much as it would cost to just rent the car, and you really don't want to drive in India. 

    The driver took us to our Hotel in downtown Delhi, and by the time we got there, I was already glad to not be driving.  This place is intense!  

    We walked around the area by the Hotel, and the nightlife was buzzing, just a whole buncha people out doing shopping or going about their business.  It was fun. 

    

Do You Have Any Leopards Here?

To start off with a brief conversation ...

    So I try to go jogging or running every morning, which can be a challenge while on the road traveling.  But I give it my level best to get out and have a decent run each day, usually early in the morning.  

   This morning started out in Kandy, Sri Lanka, our last day here.  I went up the hill from our Hotel and eventually ran out of road, ending up at a Nature Preserve.  There was no one around, but the gate was ajar, and I thought, maybe I'll take a run through here (it was a bit like a hilly jungle).  The gate however, had a big sign that said "No Admittance."

    I looked around for a while, and since no one was there, I wandered inside.  There was a cheesy kind of display area with among other things, a stuffed leopard.  Did I mention that Sri Lanka is know for their leopard population?  This gave me pause ...

    Eventually a guy came walking up the lane and I kinda figured he worked there.  So we had a conversation:

- Me: "Can I go inside for a run?"

- Him: "No, sir, we are closed."

- Me: "but is it okay if I go inside?  I am out for jogging" and I make a running example, flailing my arms and moving my feet.  I also imitate the basic English with which they are familiar. 

Him: "Yes, sir, it will be okay for you to run."

Me: "So it's okay?'

Him "Yes"

Me: "Are there leopards inside?"

Him: "Yes" 

Me: "Is it safe?'

Him: "No"

Me: "... Umm ... y'know ... maybe I'll just head back down the road .. thanks!"

Last Night, The Temple of the Tooth

    We walked around last night after we arrived in Kandy, a mountain town in the Sri Lanka highlands.  It just so happened we came across a brightly lit and rather impressive temple, with which we were unfamiliar.

    Upon inquiry (that was met with indignation) "You don't know what this is?"  we found out that this was the Temple of the Tooth.  Okay, what tooth are we talking about?  The tooth of the Buddha! like the real guy, the person around whom the religion is based.  Like it came out of his mouth.  If nothing else, they get style points for a cool name. 

    Wow!  This is a big deal around here, and is a profound spiritual destination for many.  Hey, I'm not going to pass judgment here, I thought the place was pretty awesome though ...

A Place Called Kandy -  "We have the Best Botanical Gardens in Asia!"

    So we spent the last day in Sri Lanka as mentioned in a small town in the mountains called Kandy (don't ask), and it was a perfect day with some interesting sites.

    They claim to have this fantastic garden, and I reckon they certainly have the climate for this kind of thing.  And you know what? It was a rather amazing place.

    So we wandered around looking at the very impressive display of plants from all over the world.  It was one of those days where the weather is perfect and you are relaxed, and you think mankind isn't so bad after all, if we can create places like this ...

    And we came across a sample of Mexican Agave, as in the picture below, and since these are samples from all over the world - Pop Quiz - who can say what they make out of this stuff?

    Okay, free pass on the answer ... because you probably can't read the sign, but it says Agave Tequiliana - who can guess what they make out of this plant?

People have priorities that often don't match up with ours

    Our last stop before leaving town was the giant statue of the Buddha that overlooks Kandy.  It was on top of one of the hills that surround the town.  It was impressive, and very white!

    I could make a snide comment such as ... "he has all his teeth" ... but that would be unkind.  The fact is, this is one of the largest Buddha statues in the world, and it's in the remote mountains of Sri Lanka.  There are around 400 million Buddhists believers currently. 

    

    

We're on The Train and Fiona Takes Off Her Pants and Throws them Out the Window

We've been off the Grid for a Couple Days, with a lot of Catching up to do.

Sittin' in a railway station 

Got a ticket for my destination

(not) Homeward bound 

     Old Simon and Garfunkel song

     

     This picture was taken in the main train station in Colombo, Sri Lanka's capital, last evening at 8:00, where we boarded and spent the whole night on the train heading to the highlands of central Sri Lanka.  

     The trip took a long time and we woke up at our destination far into the interior and up in the mountains.  The trip was not without some quirky events which I will outline below.  First, I wanted to describe our day, which was spent also riding the train through the spectacular scenery of Sri Lanka's tea growing region.

     Most people are unaware that Sri Lanka is one of the biggest commercial producers of tea in the world.  It's also a very beautiful country. 

     The old traditional name of Sri Lanka was Ceylon, and they still use that name for the high quality teas produced here.  

    The central highlands are ideal for growing tea, with warm temperatures and rolling hillsides that go on for miles, and lots of rain.  It is extraordinarily pleasant to glide through this landscape looking out a train window, and around every bend brings another visual delight, with countless fields of neon green tea bushes. 

So this is the part where we're riding on the train late in the evening, and Fiona takes off her pants and throws them out the window

    I feel like I probably should elaborate a little to explain this ...

    So she bought some funky pants in Cambodia because everyone was wearing them and they were quite inexpensive.  They had that low crotch thing like bad Hammer pants, with a bunch of colors and elephants and such.  

    After wearing them in this hot muggy climate, they began to stick to Fiona and eventually they split because they were a bad fit to start with.  They were wet from the train too (see below).  Highly uncomfortable.  

    So she decided to change them right then and there in the train car, which was not as bad as it sounds.  I held up a large scarf to cover the action, and the train was not real crowded.  

    So once she had changed into the replacements, she sat there with the crummy pants in her hand.  "what should I do with these now?" she said.  I thought for a minute and said, "why don't you throw them out the window ..." partly joking but also it kinda made sense.  

     So without overthinking this, Fiona chucked them out the open train window.  

     I know, it sounds like littering, but hey, I'm convinced some lady is sure to find these pants.  She will be filled with joy: "This is my lucky day!  I have found some new pants!  I think I will wear them to my sister's wedding!"

    People are very resourceful around here with clothes. 

Guess who shows up at the train station?  The President

    Before we left on the train we bought some water and snacks in a small rail station shop.  I see Fiona inside laughing and she comes out and says, the guy that works there looks just like Barack Obama.  

    Fiona said she asked him if anyone ever told him he looked like President Obama, and he began to joke with his work mates, "Hey man, I look like Obama"

    "Really?" I asked.  "Yes," Fiona said, "and you should go and take a picture of him!"

    So I did.  He wasn't as tall as our President, but there is quite a resemblance, even down to the ears kinda sticking out. 

Excuse me sir, what is that yucky liquid running out of the toilet on the train?

    So as we continue to ride on the train, it's probably around 9:00 at night by now, and there is a bunch of something coming out from under the toilet door on the train.  It's foul and it's running down the aisle and getting everything wet.  I'm thinking, this is gonna be a long night.  It's really heinous. It would gag a maggot. 

    I point this out to the conductor and he investigates.  The liquid is really making a mess and it's all over.  He comes back and makes a triumphant announcement: "It's water, Sir!"  

    He sounds so proud ... It's water?  What kind of water?  And this is supposed to be good? compared to what?  Urine? Feces? Vomit?  Maybe all three mixed together, it sure smells like it.  People are trying to tiptoe around this stuff holding up their skirts and pants legs.

    This guy acts like he is expecting a congratulations or something, but smelly liquid running out of the toilet and down the aisle is no cause for celebration.

    Heck, my wife got some on her pants and threw them out the window ... !

     

Every Day Brings Something Different

We Rough It Once in a While, But We Want to Enjoy Travel Too

So we have stayed in a variety of different places on our trip, and some are better than others.  Often you have to go pretty basic, with "rustic" accommodations, but we also know how to find pleasure in our hotel stays (mostly thanks to Fiona's talent in making arrangements)

Pictured is the Mount Lavinia Hotel in Colombo, Sri Lanka.  It's a colonial style place about two hundred years old.  Faded glory, but still very nice and full of character.  

This picture at night captures the beauty of the Indian Ocean as the sun goes down. 

Sometimes You Meet Really Nice and Interesting People When You Travel 

We spent the day traveling by train to the very southern tip of Sri Lanka, and low and behold, we met a Scottish lady named Fiona!  So for a while I was traveling with two Fionas!  She was in Sri Lanka to do English language training, and we had a long conversation while on the train, and turns out, her and (my) Fiona actually knew some of the same people!

Good Galle Miss Molly 

Couldn't resist ... we traveled on the train to a town called Galle (pronounced Gall-eh) at the south end of Sri Lanka.  It was a colonial fort area originally settled by the Portuguese, then the Dutch, and then the British.  It was a bona fide fort with ramparts,  and all the other stuff forts are made of.  The day was warm and sunny and we had an awesome time. 

The area was filled with wildlife, animals and such, like this cool large fishing bird with a Sri Lanka name that I couldn't translate. 

Even though Sri Lanka has become a mostly modern nation, (more comments on that later) it still has remnants of a distance past that carry forward to this current time. 

Moving On - Arrived this Morning in Sri Lanka!

Part of our goal in this Around The World trip is to go places we've never been before.  And Sri Lanka is one of those places.  It used to be known as Ceylon, and they grow a lot of tea here.  It's a rather large island nation of 22 million off the southeast coast of India.  We flew here way too early this morning from Bangkok, after leaving Cambodia. Here are some things we've seen and experienced already:

How can you have a half hour time zone change?

    So you know when they land the plane and say "welcome to so and so ... Please note the time change from this to that?" 

    Well, when you arrive in Sri Lanka (pronounced Shree Lawn Ka), they come on and say, "please adjust your watches to one and a half hour ahead of Bangkok time."  Hunh?  

    I though all time zones had to be an hour apart?  Isn't there a rule about those kind of things?  Like, where did they come up with that?  And why?  

    So when it's say 6:00 AM in Portland, it's 7:30 PM in Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka.  Very confusing, I still can't get over that one ....

How many Sri Lankans can you fit on a commuter train?

     A story:  We went into downtown Colombo this afternoon to take care of some business and make travel arrangements to take a train up into the mountains in a couple days.  We also had dinner there in a small local cafe (I'm gonna blog about food sometime soon).  The food was freakin' spicy and intense!

     One of the travel things we have to do real quick is go to the American Embassy to get more pages put into, or added to, my passport, which is getting dangerously close to being full.  Every time you enter a country, they stick a visa in there which often takes a full page.  So we contacted the American embassy in Sri Lanka and made an appointment to get more pages inserted so we can keep traveling.  

    So we were going to catch the commuter train back to our Hotel. It just so happens that there is a train station about 200 meters (yards) from our hotel.  

    In fact we rode the local commuter train into town in the first place. It was an interesting trip, about thirty minutes, as the train ran right along the seashore. I was sitting across from Fiona and as I looked out the window, it looked like we were riding the rails across the ocean!  A cool moment in time ...

     However, when we made our way back to the train to head back to our hotel, it was rush hour, and it seemed like the entire city was heading home at the same time and it was crowded, like totally maxed out!  You had to push your way onto the train.   And it was hot, over 91 degrees F.

    So we eventually get on and hang on for dear life in a train that is WAY TOO Crowded.  In fact, I did some quick math and figured there must be close to 400 people like in one train car.       You are pressed together in ways that are not polite, or safe, and barely decent, with sweat (and smells) that test your will to live. 

    You not only have to stand the whole time, you have to stand completely still, because for starters you can't move, and secondarily, you will be accused of molesting someone. 

    As we jumped off the commuter train, I took a picture of people trying to load on.  It just seemed insane.  And one guy who helped us escape said, "well, that wasn't so bad ... !"

But Hey, we survived ...

     And we got back to the Hotel in one disheveled piece, and well, it's hard to complain when this is what it looks like.  A walk on the beach (did I mention our hotel is right on the beach?) and ... I guess you can forget about all the grief when you can relax with this:

Nature and History are Woven Together and Guess Who Wins?

One of the most impressive things about our visit to the Angkor Wat ruins in Cambodia is how time has affected the condition of these ancient structures.  In view of the fact that they were built over a thousand years ago, and then abandoned, nature has a way of reclaiming what was once jungle and forest.

Part of what makes this place enchanting is the way that nature has entwined itself into the fabric of these buildings.  In other words, if you wait long enough, nature is gonna make a comeback.  

Perhaps one of our favorite things (among many) about the Angkor Wat ruins is how trees and other plants have grown up, in, and around these once magnificent buildings.  It gives us all a view of how time marches on, and empires crumble, and ... ashes to ashes ...?
The forces of nature should not be lightly dismissed.  A building that took a thousand slaves one hundred years to build can, over time, be humbled by a single tree.  

We saw repeated examples of this.  The climate and conditions in Cambodia favor spectacular botanical growth of an almost infinite variety - trees of legendary heights - orchids you can only dream of - and with that, nothing can stand in its way.

And we're not talking about apple trees in your backyard, these are massive, almost gigantic, trees reaching 200 feet into the sky, trying to top their competitors (other tall tropical trees) to compete for the sunlight.
Which begs the question ... what is greater?  Man, and his endless empires (which always end?)  Or ... who really created all this? 

This Is Why You Travel ...

    One of the anticipated highlights of our trip was coming to Cambodia to visit the Angkor Wat ancient ruins.  We've been doing that for a couple days now and have been thrilled with what we've seen.

    In short, Angkor Wat is astounding!  We've traveled a fair amount and seen a lot of things, but this has to be among the very best historical sites that planet earth has to offer.  Upon seeing it for the first time, we were speechless, it is absolutely mind boggling!

This structure is actually taller than a forty storey building

    For starters, the scale of this place is massive, it's really an ancient city.  It goes on for miles. It was buried in the jungle for centuries, and was re-discovered around 1600 by a Portuguese monk who wrote: "It is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible to describe with a pen, particularly since it is like no other buildings in the world.  It has towers and decorations and all the refinements which the human genius can conceive of." 

    It is far larger than we expected and is spread throughout the jungle on several large sites.  Many have been restored to a great extent, but many more are just as they were discovered, almost enveloped by the jungle.  The feeling as you walk through is of complete amazement and fascination.

    Another French explorer who laid eyes on it had this to say: "These temples would rival that of Solomon, as though erected by an ancient Michaelangelo, and would take an honorable place among our finest buildings, they are grander than anything left to us by Greece or Rome."

    So I am using quotes from historical figures to describe this historical place, because frankly I can't find the right words other than incredible, unbelieveable, stupefying, fantastic, etc.  

    Part of what makes it so magical is that it was concealed by the jungle and still has that Indiana Jones mystical quality about it.  Every turn contains another amazing view, and it covers many, many square miles.  

    Pictures just don't do it justice.  Like the Grand Canyon, it's more of a feel.  The grandeur and size of the buildings is amazing, and the detail and design elements are intricate, creative, artistic, and unique.

    

We travel around by tuk-tuk, a open three wheeled transportion device (sort of like a modern day rickshaw) that allows one to take in the scenery and absorb the environment ... and enjoy the warm, sunny weather.

This is a view of the causeway across a large moat entering one of the main temples.

 It's been two days of non-stop touring and walking and looking, and we have another couple days here.  I hope we can fit it all in.  Look for more postings on this segment of our trip.

This is me (oh really?) overlooking one of the main temples from up inside a giant tower

Emotional Highs and Lows and Extremes and ... Comfort Zone Blowout

So it was that kind of day, with a million things going on, and most of them turning out ... okay?

It's better just to list them in a bullet point format.  This might take a minute to read:  Sorry, no pictures on this narrative.

• Bangkok, Thailand Feb 11, 2015
• I try to go for a run every day, and this morning I ran several kilometers through a really beautiful park near where we are staying ... wonderful!
• Started out with breakfast where we spent the night at our good friends, Phil and Cindy Porter, and it's Cindy's birthday, so everyone is in a good mood.  Breakfast with good conversation and fellowship and great homemade yogurt and salsa and omelettes! 
• Cindy announces that as a part celebration of her birthday, we are all going to a Thai massage place for a super duper massage. 
• This puts me (Kevin) in a quandary - I'm not a big massage guy, in fact my only real experience with massage stuff was an unmitigated humiliating disaster, and ironcally, it was in Bangkok a few years back.
• So I immediately hedge and say, "well, maybe ..." meaning Hell no, I will never do that again!  I'm still tramautized from the last time!
• At noonish, Cindy and Phil Skype with their kids who are all around the world, before we set off for a day of activity and unforeseen excitement (anxiety?)  We have a busy schedule before we catch a plane to Cambodia in the evening.  This busy schedule includes going to a Thai hospital to get a Yellow Fever inoculation because it will be required during the remainder of our trip. 
• By this time, I have consented to submit to a Thai massage, hey man, "I'll go along with this and I'll take one for the team, etc."  in the meantime, I'm still terrified. 
• So the massage thing is our first stop and it's done as a couple with Fiona and I in the same private room with a couple of expert Thai ladies doing this aroma massage thing and ... frankly, it was a very nice experience, and at one point I went into a dream like state and never felt better, at least for a while.
• So then we all went to the ministry facility where Phil and Cindy have done phenomenal things, and it's starting to get later in the day and we are beginning to get a little pressed for time.
• We make our way to downtown Bangkok (not an easy thing to do with extreme traffic) and we find this hospital with a good reputation and we are going to get a Yellow Fever shot. 
• This is like ... Way out of my comfort zone.   The massage thing was already a stretch, and now I'm gonna get a needle poked in me with a deadly third world disease vaccination?  I'm thinking, we're in a hospital in a remote place and they are going to inoculate me against a disease that I might get in another remote place?  Why am I doing this kind of thing?  Isn't travel supposed to be fun?
• And we're starting to run out of time, it looks like we will miss our plane to Cambodia, and the stress starts to sky rocket.  Hey, we just spent good money on a fantastic massage and now I'm freaking out with a lady going to stick a needle in me, and by the way, they do a blood pressure check and I'm supposed to be calm?  What the ... ?
• So we finally get the shot and I'm pray to God that I will be okay, and we have squeezed the time down to zero margin of error to get to the airport to make our flight to Cambodia.
• We jump in a Taxi and go about one kilometer in a half hour.  By this time Fiona has totally lost it and figures there is NO WAY we are going to make this flight and we are going to have to .... well, your mind has to find ways to cope with bad stuff and you begin to construct scenarios of how the rest of your life may turn out ...
• Beyond all reason and logic, we make the flight, we're talking miracle here ... and I don't use that term lightly ... and as I write this, we are sitting in our hotel room in Siem Reap Cambodia, and we are exhausted and cannot comprehend what has happened today ...
•